1. The Basic Framework: All Clothing Fabrics Come From Three Major Families

There are thousands of fabrics on the market, but at their source, they can all be divided into three major categories.

Family One: Natural Fibers — Gifts From Nature

These come directly from plants and animals.

Fibers taken from plants are called plant fibers, such as:

• Cotton
• Linen

Fibers obtained from animals are called animal fibers, such as:

• Silk
• Wool

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Family Two: Man-Made Fibers — Created by Humans

These are artificially produced fibers, and they can be divided into two groups:

1. Regenerated fibers

These use natural materials such as wood pulp or protein and transform them into new fibers.

Examples include:

• Modal
• Lyocell
• Viscose
• Cupro
• Acetate

2. Synthetic fibers

These are mainly produced from petroleum-based chemicals.

Examples include:

• Polyester
• Nylon
• Spandex

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Family Three: Blended Fabrics — Combining Strengths

These combine different fibers to balance their advantages and disadvantages.

For example:

Cotton + polyester blend

This combines cotton’s comfort with polyester’s wrinkle resistance and durability.

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2. Common Fabrics Explained: Advantages and Disadvantages

Natural Fibers · Plant-Based

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1. Cotton — The Reliable Everyday Classic

Cotton comes from cotton plant fibers.

Advantages:

Its biggest strengths can be summed up in four words:

Soft and breathable.

Cotton absorbs sweat, does not create much static electricity, and is gentle enough for babies and elderly people.

Disadvantages:

It also has unavoidable weaknesses:

• Wrinkles easily
• May shrink
• Can lose structure after repeated washing

A pure cotton T-shirt whose collar turns wavy after one season is simply showing the natural characteristics of cotton.

Buying tips:

Look at the thread count (yarn count).

The higher the count, the finer and softer the yarn.

• 40-count cotton: good enough for everyday wear
• 60-count and above: considered high-count cotton

Long-staple cotton is softer and stronger than regular cotton.

Examples of premium cotton include:

• Xinjiang cotton
• Egyptian cotton

Fun fact:

The world’s most expensive cotton is Sea Island cotton. Because production is extremely limited, a single shirt made from it can cost tens of thousands of yuan.

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2. Linen (Flax / Ramie) — Nature’s Air Conditioner

Linen comes from the stems of plants.

Its heat dissipation speed is about three times faster than cotton.

It keeps you cool, does not cling to sweaty skin, and naturally helps reduce odors.

Wearing linen in summer feels like carrying a personal air conditioner.

Disadvantages:

However:

• It feels stiff
• It can feel slightly scratchy
• It wrinkles extremely easily

Sit for half an hour, stand up, and you may look like a pickled vegetable.

Buying tips:

Good linen should feel:

• Cool
• Dry
• Refreshing

It should not feel itchy.

Try squeezing it into a ball and releasing it. Deep, natural wrinkles usually indicate a higher linen content.

A linen-cotton blend can reduce the roughness and is more suitable for everyday wear.

Fun fact:

Linen is one of humanity’s oldest textile fibers. The burial cloths of ancient Egyptian pharaohs were made from linen and survived for thousands of years.

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Natural Fibers · Animal-Based

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3. Wool — Winter’s Warm Companion

Wool comes from sheep fleece.

Advantages:

Wool provides:

• Excellent warmth
• Breathability
• Moisture absorption
• Wrinkle resistance

It keeps you warm without feeling stuffy.

Disadvantages:

Some wool can feel itchy.

It also:

• Attracts moths
• Requires careful washing
• Can shrink dramatically if washed incorrectly

One spin cycle in a washing machine can turn a sweater into children’s clothing.

Buying tips:

For next-to-skin wear, choose Merino wool.

Superfine Merino wool usually has a fiber diameter below 18 microns, making it much less itchy.

The finer the fiber, the higher the quality.

Fun fact:

Wool can absorb up to 30% of its own weight in moisture without feeling wet — something synthetic fibers cannot match.

4. Silk (Mulberry Silk) — The Luxury Fabric

Silk comes from the threads produced by silkworms.

Advantages:

Silk is known for being:

• Smooth
• Glossy
• Soft against the skin
• Cool without feeling cold

When worn, it naturally creates a soft, elegant glow.

Disadvantages:

However, silk requires careful maintenance:

• Easily snags
• Sensitive to sunlight
• Difficult to wash
• Can fade or become stiff if not cared for properly

Taking care of silk can sometimes feel harder than taking care of a pet.

Buying tips:

For silk, look at the momme (mm) count.

The higher the momme number, the thicker and more substantial the fabric.

• 16 momme: entry level
• 19–22 momme: ideal thickness for shirts and blouses
• 25+ momme: suitable for jackets and outerwear

Different silk weaves create different effects:

• Silk charmeuse (satin): glossy and glamorous
• Silk crepe de chine: matte, elegant, and sophisticated

Fun fact:

A single silkworm cocoon can produce more than 1,000 meters of silk thread. However, several silk filaments must be combined to create one sewing thread.

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Regenerated Fibers · Turning Wood Pulp Into Soft Fabrics

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5. Modal — The Perfect Fabric for Sleepwear

Modal is made from beech tree wood pulp.

Advantages:

Modal is:

• Softer than cotton
• Highly absorbent
• Smooth with excellent drape

It is especially popular for:

• Underwear
• Pajamas
• Loungewear

Disadvantages:

Its weaknesses:

• Can lose shape after long use
• Becomes loose and less structured over time
• Weak when wet

Do not expect modal to hold a crisp shape.

Buying tips:

Modal comes in different qualities.

Look for:

• Regular modal
• Lenzing Modal (a premium branded modal produced by Austrian company Lenzing)

Lenzing Modal generally offers better durability.

For underwear, a good formula is:

95% modal + 5% spandex

This gives softness plus elasticity.

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6. Lyocell (Tencel) — The Balanced High Performer

Lyocell is made from wood pulp such as eucalyptus or birch.

It is produced using an environmentally friendly closed-loop manufacturing process, where most solvents are recovered and reused.

Advantages:

Lyocell combines many strengths:

• Soft like modal
• More structured than modal
• Breathable
• Less prone to wrinkles
• Lower shrinkage than cotton

It is smoother and more durable than pure cotton.

Although more expensive, it offers excellent overall performance.

Buying tips:

The best-known Lyocell is Tencel™ by Lenzing.

Authentic Lyocell should feel:

• Cool
• Smooth
• Slightly firm with some body

If it feels overly soft and floppy, it may not be genuine Lyocell.

Fun fact:

When wet, Lyocell is about twice as strong as viscose, which is why it lasts longer and handles washing better.

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7. Viscose (Rayon) — The Affordable Substitute With Two Sides

Viscose is one of the oldest regenerated cellulose fibers.

Its raw materials include:

• Wood pulp
• Cotton linters

Advantages:

Viscose is:

• Affordable
• Smooth
• Drapey
• Moisture absorbent

It can have a silk-like appearance.

Disadvantages:

However:

• Wrinkles easily
• Shrinks easily
• Loses much of its strength when wet

A wet viscose garment can tear much more easily.

Important note:

Viscose can have different names depending on its form.

• Long fibers → Rayon, designed to imitate silk
• Short fibers → Artificial cotton / artificial wool, designed to imitate cotton or wool textures

Viscose is often blended with wool to reduce costs, although pure artificial wool fabrics are now less common.

Buying tips:

Viscose is often blended with polyester to improve durability.

Remember:

• Higher viscose content = softer and more comfortable
• But also more delicate

Wash gently, preferably by hand or in a laundry bag.

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8. Cupro — A Cool Alternative to Silk

Cupro is made from cotton linter (the short fibers left around cotton seeds).

The fibers are dissolved in a copper-ammonia solution and spun into new fibers.

Advantages:

Cupro has:

• Excellent moisture absorption
• A cool feeling in summer
• A soft, silky touch
• Beautiful drape

Among regenerated fibers, its moisture management ability is among the best.

Disadvantages:

It:

• Does not tolerate strong acids or alkalis
• Wrinkles easily
• Can become stiff if washed incorrectly

Buying tips:

Cupro can look very similar to silk.

Check the care label:

It should say:

• Cupro
• Cupra
• Copper ammonia fiber

Compared with silk:

• It feels cooler
• Costs much less
• Offers excellent value

It is one of the best summer fabric choices.

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9. Acetate — Silk’s Structured Alternative

Acetate is also made from wood pulp, but the cellulose undergoes an additional chemical modification process.

Advantages:

Compared with Cupro, acetate:

• Has a silk-like shine
• Holds its shape better
• Has better thermal stability

Many premium fashion dresses and evening gowns use acetate because it offers:

• Elegant drape
• A structured silhouette

Disadvantages:

However:

• More expensive than Cupro
• Sensitive to acids

Important distinction:

There are two main types:

• Diacetate
• Triacetate

Triacetate has:

• Higher chemical modification
• Better stability
• A silk-like appearance

It is also more expensive.

Japan’s Mitsubishi triacetate is considered a high-quality industry benchmark.

Buying tips:

Real acetate should feel:

• Warm and refined
• Smooth but not artificially slippery

When squeezed and released, wrinkles should be fine and recover quickly.

If the label says:

• Acetate fiber
• Triacetate fiber

then it is genuine.

A real acetate skirt under 200 RMB is highly suspicious because the raw material cost is already high.

10. Soybean Fiber / Milk Fiber — Misleading Names, Mixed Origins

Soybean Fiber

Its official name is:

Soybean protein composite fiber

It is made by extracting protein from soybean residue and combining it with synthetic polymers to create fibers.

Milk Fiber

Its official name is:

Milk protein modified polyacrylonitrile fiber

It is made by combining milk protein components with modified acrylic fibers.

Both are hybrid fibers, combining natural ingredients with chemical materials.

Advantages:

They feel:

• Soft
• Smooth
• Lightweight
• Skin-friendly

They may also have some antibacterial properties.

Disadvantages:

However:

• High-purity versions are expensive
• Most products on the market are blends
• Shape retention is not particularly strong

Buying tips:

Do not be fooled by attractive names.

Check the fiber composition label:

Look for terms such as:

• Protein composite fiber
• Modified acrylic fiber

If the content is below 10%, the “soybean” or “milk” label is mostly a marketing gimmick with very limited practical benefits.

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Synthetic Fibers · The Petroleum Family

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11. Polyester — The Durability Champion

Polyester is made from petroleum-based materials.

Advantages:

Polyester is:

• Wrinkle-resistant
• Shape-retaining
• Quick-drying
• Affordable
• Highly durable

It is extremely resistant to degradation and can remain in the environment for hundreds of years.

Disadvantages:

Its weaknesses:

• Less breathable
• Can feel stuffy
• Builds static electricity easily

A 100% polyester T-shirt in summer can turn into a “sweat trap.”

Buying tips:

Polyester comes mainly in two forms:

Polyester filament

• Smooth
• Shiny
• Silk-like

Polyester staple fiber

• More cotton-like
• Softer texture

For sportswear, choose special-shaped polyester fibers with grooves or channels that help move sweat away.

Ordinary polyester often only traps moisture.

A classic everyday blend:

65% cotton + 35% polyester

This provides:

• Cotton comfort
• Polyester durability

Fun fact:

Polyester is currently the world’s most widely produced textile fiber, accounting for more than half of global fiber production.

There is a good chance that half the clothes in your wardrobe contain polyester.

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12. Nylon (Polyamide) — The Wear-Resistance King

Nylon is also petroleum-based.

Advantages:

Nylon offers:

• Extremely high abrasion resistance
• Strong durability
• Good elasticity
• Lightweight performance

Its wear resistance is around ten times that of cotton.

Disadvantages:

However:

• Creates static easily
• Breathability is average
• Long exposure to UV light can weaken it

Buying tips:

Look at the denier (D) number.

Lower numbers mean:

• Finer fibers
• Softer feel

Examples:

• 20D–40D: lightweight sports clothing
• 200D+: outdoor jackets and protective fabrics

Nylon 66 generally performs better than Nylon 6 in:

• Heat resistance
• Durability

High-end outdoor products often use Nylon 66.

Fun fact:

Nylon was invented by DuPont in 1935.

It was once promoted as a revolutionary material “stronger than steel and tougher than spider silk,” marking the beginning of the synthetic fiber era.

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13. Spandex (Lycra / Elastane) — The Invisible Supporting Actor

Spandex is also petroleum-based.

Its greatest feature:

It can stretch up to 5–8 times its original length and quickly return to its original shape.

Advantages:

Without spandex:

• Jeans would feel restrictive
• Sportswear would lose flexibility
• Stretch clothing would not exist

Disadvantages:

It cannot be used alone to make fabric.

It is usually added in small amounts:

• 2%–20%

Buying tips:

For everyday clothing:

5%–10% spandex is usually enough.

More than 15% may create an overly tight feeling.

Lycra is actually a brand name for high-quality spandex.

Garments labeled “Lycra” often have better elasticity and recovery.

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14. Acrylic Fiber — The Hidden Warmth Provider

Acrylic fiber is made from petroleum-based materials.

It is often called:

“Artificial wool.”

Advantages:

Acrylic is:

• Lightweight
• Fluffy
• Soft
• Warm

It is widely used in:

• Sweaters
• Blankets
• Faux fur coats
• Thermal underwear

Disadvantages:

However:

• Poor moisture absorption
• Easy static buildup
• Prone to pilling

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Special Attention: What Exactly Is “De Rong” (German Velvet)?

Many people think De Rong is a completely new fiber.

It is not.

“De Rong” refers to a branded acrylic fiber developed by German company Bayer.

Its English brand name is Dralon.

The fiber structure is specially designed, making it:

• Softer
• Fluffier
• Warmer

than ordinary acrylic.

But essentially:

De Rong = premium acrylic fiber.

Advantages:

It is genuinely warm.

Disadvantages:

Compared with natural wool:

• Less breathable
• More likely to trap moisture

Buying tips:

When buying De Rong products, check the fiber label.

If it says:

• 100% acrylic
• Polyacrylonitrile fiber

it may simply be ordinary acrylic using a premium name.

Authentic Dralon products usually carry the Dralon certification mark.

Also remember:

Higher acrylic content usually means more warmth, but adding some spandex improves comfort and fit.

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Special Names · Not Fiber Types, But Fabric Techniques

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Chiffon — The Romantic Name Behind Two Very Different Fabrics

Chiffon is not a fiber.

It refers to a weaving style, also known as Georgette fabric.

Most chiffon fabrics today are made from:

• Polyester filament

A smaller amount is made from:

• Silk

Advantages:

Chiffon is known for being:

• Lightweight
• Flowing
• Elegant
• Drapey

Disadvantages:

Polyester chiffon:

• Looks beautiful
• But feels hot and less breathable

Silk chiffon:

• Feels luxurious
• But costs more
• Requires careful maintenance

Buying tips:

Always check the care label.

If it says:

100% polyester

→ It is polyester chiffon.

A chiffon dress costing more than 200 RMB may not be worth the price unless the design or workmanship justifies it.

If it says:

100% mulberry silk

→ It is real silk chiffon.

Prices are usually above 500 RMB.

Fun fact:

The word “Chiffon” comes from French and originally meant “rag” or “scrap cloth.”

Through translation, it transformed from a humble word into a symbol of elegance and romance.

3. Essential Fabric-Buying Tricks: Three Ways to Identify Materials Quickly

Without professional equipment, you can often identify fabrics in about 30 seconds using three methods:

Check the label, feel the fabric, and (when possible) perform a burn test.

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Method 1: Check the Care Label — Only Trust the Fiber Composition

The care label contains the legally required information.

The fiber composition is listed from highest percentage to lowest percentage.

The first ingredient is the main material.

For example:

For next-to-skin clothing:

Look for:

• Cotton
• Modal
• Lyocell

listed first.

For sportswear:

Prefer:

• Nylon
• Spandex

listed near the top.

For winter coats:

The first ingredient should ideally be:

• Wool
• Cashmere

if you are paying a premium price.

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If you see:

100% polyester

with a four-digit price tag, think carefully before buying.

A label saying “Tencel” on the front but “100% polyester” on the composition tag is a classic case of misleading marketing.

The law requires accurate fiber labeling, but some small brands still try this trick.

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Method 2: Touch It + Squeeze It

Your hands can reveal a lot.

Cotton

Feel:

• Warm
• Soft
• Natural

When squeezed tightly and released:

• Fine wrinkles remain
• Similar to crumpled paper

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Linen

Feel:

• Cool
• Dry
• Slightly rough

When squeezed:

• Wrinkles are deeper
• Recovery is slow

This is linen’s signature.

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Silk / Modal / Lyocell

Feel:

• Cool
• Smooth
• Fluid

Like touching flowing water.

When squeezed:

• Wrinkles are fine
• They disappear quickly

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Wool

Feel:

• Warm
• Soft
• Elastic

When squeezed and released:

The fabric slowly returns to shape, almost like it has memory.

High-quality wool recovers faster.

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Synthetic Fibers (Polyester / Nylon)

Feel:

• Smooth and cool
• Sometimes slightly artificial

When squeezed:

• Few wrinkles appear
• Or wrinkles look stiff and unnatural

This is the typical characteristic of synthetic fibers.

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Method 3: Burn Test (The Ultimate Identification Method)

Only test:

• Loose threads
• Small fabric scraps

Never burn the actual garment.

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Cotton / Linen / Viscose / Modal / Lyocell / Cupro / Acetate

Burning characteristics:

• Smell like burning paper or dry grass
• Yellow flame
• Light, soft ash
• Ash turns into powder when rubbed

Acetate burns more slowly than viscose and leaves slightly more ash.

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Silk / Wool

Burning characteristics:

• Smell like burning hair or feathers
• Flame goes out relatively quickly
• Leaves a black, brittle bead

The residue crumbles easily when pressed.

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Polyester

Burning characteristics:

• Black smoke
• Sweet chemical or plastic smell
• Melts into a hard bead

After cooling, the bead becomes hard like glass.

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Nylon

Burning characteristics:

• Celery-like or plastic smell
• Melts into a white or light-colored hard bead

The bead also cannot be crushed easily.

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Acrylic Fiber (Including De Rong)

Burning characteristics:

• Bright, jumping flame
• Sharp, irritating acidic smell
• Black hard residue

The ash does not crumble easily.

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4. Choosing Fabrics by Situation — No Need to Memorize Everything

Just match the fabric to the purpose.

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Sleepwear / Underwear

Recommended:

• Modal
• Lyocell
• Pure cotton

Priority:

Softness + breathability

Comfort comes first.

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Summer T-shirts / Shirts

Recommended:

• Cotton
• Linen
• Lyocell
• Cupro
• Cotton-linen blends

Benefits:

• Breathable
• Less sticky
• Comfortable when sweating

Cupro shirts often feel noticeably cooler than cotton shirts.

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Summer Dresses

Recommended:

• Silk chiffon
• Triacetate
• Lyocell

Benefits:

• Elegant drape
• Cool touch
• Premium appearance

Avoid cheap polyester chiffon:

It may look like a fairy dress outside, while feeling like a sauna inside.

Budget choice:

• Cupro

Higher budget:

• Triacetate

It offers silk-like beauty while being easier to care for.

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Autumn/Winter Coats and Sweaters

Best choices:

• Wool
• Cashmere

Look for:

• Merino wool
• Cashmere

Budget alternative:

• De Rong

But check:

• Whether it really uses Dralon fibers
• Whether some spandex is included

Pure acrylic has less flexibility.

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Sportswear

Recommended:

• Nylon + spandex

Benefits:

• Stretch
• Durability
• Quick drying

Look for:

• Special-shaped polyester fibers
• Performance nylon

Avoid ordinary polyester sportswear if you sweat heavily.

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Everyday Work Shirts / Pants

Classic choice:

65% cotton + 35% polyester

Advantages:

• Comfortable
• Structured
• Less wrinkling

For a more premium drape:

Choose:

• Acetate blends

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Jeans

Ideal composition:

98% cotton + 2% spandex

You get:

• Traditional denim texture
• Slight stretch
• Better comfort when sitting or squatting

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Thermal Underwear

Choices:

De Rong

Advantages:

• Affordable
• Warm

Disadvantages:

• Less breathable

Merino wool

Advantages:

• Expensive
• Warm
• Breathable
• Less stuffy

Choose according to:

• Budget
• How much you sweat

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Final Thoughts

No fabric is absolutely “the best.”

The right choice depends on the situation.

Natural fibers:

✅ Comfortable
❌ More delicate

Synthetic fibers:

✅ Durable
❌ Can feel less breathable

Regenerated fibers:

✅ Balance comfort and performance
❌ Each has its own limitations

A high price does not always mean high quality.

A low price does not always mean poor quality.

The key is simple:

Turn over the label. Check the fiber composition and percentages. Compare the material with the price. Then you will know whether the garment is worth buying.